Rejuvenate Your Skin With Retinoids
Sun damage, fine lines, and wrinkles can sometimes be treated best with retinoids. Here's how to find a retinoid treatment that addresses your skin's needs.
What are retinoids, and why should you care about them? Retinoids are a class of ingredients that were originally developed to treat acne in the 1960s. More recently, they’ve been shown to be effective at treating signs of aging and sun damage. In fact, there are only two prescription ingredients that are approved by the FDA for treating fine wrinkles, roughness, and the blotchy pigmentation associated with photodamage (sun damage). Both are retinoids: tretinoin (the active ingredient in Retin-A, Renova, and generic creams) and tazarotene (brand name Tazorac). Here’s how to figure out which one suits your needs:
If you have sun damage: Ask your doctor if either tretinoin or tazarotene would be right for you. Tretinoin has been shown to soften fine lines by slowing the breakdown of collagen in your skin and stimulating the production of new collagen. In addition, tretinoin has been shown to fade dark discoloration and blotchy pigmentation. Tazarotene typically works faster than tretinoin, but after a few months its results are similar. However, for some people it’s more irritating than tretinoin. I often recommend that patients start a retinoid two or three times a week and then gradually working up to every night, as tolerated.
If you have fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes: Consider asking your doctor about tretinoin of a milder strength, such as Renova, which comes in a moisturizing base. Many of my patients are worried that the retinoid with make their skin thinner. In fact, with proper use, retinoids have been proven to make the skin thicker and plumper.
If you’re new to retinoids or if you have sensitive skin: Try an over-the-counter retinol product, like Olay ProX Deep Wrinkle Treatment ($17) or RoC Retinol Correxion ($11). Retinol is converted into tretinoin in the skin, though it’s only about 1/20 the strength of the tretinoin in Retin-A. However, because it’s less irritating than prescription products, it’s a good place to start.
Facial Masks for Different Skin Types
If a crazy schedule has derailed your skin care routine, try a facial mask to get your skin back on track. Masks contain a higher concentration of active ingredients, so you may see results faster than you would with a cream alone. Set aside 10 minutes a week to bring dull, tired, angry skin back to life — and take a well-deserved catnap at the same time. (Just make sure you warn your spouse or roommate before applying the mask so you don't scare him or her!) Here's how to choose a mask that will work best for your skin type:
For oily skin and skin with blemishes and large pores: look for ingredients like kaolin clay and silica, which absorb oil and reduce shine. Kaolin also helps calm breakouts by fighting inflammation and redness. Try Clinique's Acne Solutions Oil-Control Cleansing Mask or Neutrogena's Deep Clean Long-Last Shine Control Cleanser/Mask.
If you have dry, flaky patches: look for a hydrating mask with oils and emollient ingredients. Try Origins' Drink Up Intensive Overnight Mask with avocado and apricot kernel oils or Laura Mercier's Intensive Moisture Mask, which contains sweet almond and sunflower seed oils as well as sodium hyaluronate, which helps hold moisture in your skin. For maximum hydration, leave the mask on at least 20 minutes or even overnight.
Those with rosacea and sensitive skin: look for water-based gel masks that contain natural skin soothers like cucumber and aloe. These masks cool your skin as they dry, helping to reduce redness and irritation. For best results, store the mask in the fridge. Try Yes to Cucumbers Calm Care Soothing Facial Mask or Peter Thomas Roth Cucumber Gel Masque.
For anti-aging benefits: look for a mask that contains collagen-building retinol — try Shiseido's Benefiance Pure Retinol Intensive Revitalizing Face Mask.
Get Clear Pores: 3 Simple Ways to Banish Blackheads
Sometimes no matter how diligent you are about washing your face every day, blackheads can rear their ugly heads, especially on and around the nose. Clogged pores are often to blame. Pores are openings to oil glands, which are concentrated on the nose, chin, and forehead (often called the T zone). When the oil, or sebum, gets trapped inside the pores and then comes into contact with the air, it turns dark, creating blackheads. Dead skin cells also get trapped in the pores and build up, eventually stretching out the pores and making them look huge. While it’s difficult to shrink pores permanently, here is what you can do to help minimize blackheads:
1. Be sure to exfoliate to help keep pores from getting clogged. If your skin is very oily, try Neutrogena Pink Grapefruit Foaming Scrub, which contains salicylic acid to unclog pores. If you have sensitive skin, try Alba Hawaiian Pineapple Enzyme Facial Scrub or Kiehl's Pineapple Papaya Facial Scrub, which contain natural fruit enzymes to gently loosen dead skin cells. Avoid scrubbing if your skin is irritated or sunburned.
2. Try Bioré Ultra Deep Cleansing Pore Strips to temporarily remove surface oil and dirt from your pores. Wet your skin and place a strip on your nose until it dries (about 15 minutes), then peel it off. You'll be able to see tiny plugs of dead skin that have come off on the tape. While these can help temporarily, don’t use them more than once or twice a week or if you’re using a retinoid or have sensitive skin, because overuse can lead to irritated skin.
3. A primer (either under makeup or on its own) can help blackheads look smaller by smoothing out the surface of your skin and soaking up oil. Try Philosophy's On a Clear Day Acne Clarifying Primer, which also contains salicylic acid.
Eating for Clear Skin
You know how your mother used to nag you to stop eating french fries and cookies because they'd make you break out? Well, she may have been onto something.
It's not that greasy food makes your skin produce more oil but that certain foods — especially simple carbohydrates, such as potatoes, cookies, and bread — raise your blood sugar. When blood sugar rises, your body produces insulin, which has several effects, one of which is to stimulate your skin's oil glands. Several studies have shown that a diet high in these types of foods can aggravate acne.
And it's not just carbs. Dairy products, including milk, have also been associated with breakouts because they contain hormones that affect pores and oil glands, leading to pimples and acne cysts. Some of my patients notice worse breakouts just three days after they binge on dairy, sugar, or baked goods. As a dermatologist, I recommend limiting the amount of simple carbs and dairy in your diet.
Just remember that if you're cutting down on dairy, you must make sure that you're getting adequate calcium from other sources. My favorite skin-friendly snacks are Kashi GOLEAN Crunchy! Bars (approximately $1.72 each, or $18.44 for a 12-pack at select supermarkets, natural food stores, or kashi.com). They contain fiber and protein, but they're dairy-free, and the carbohydrates are released slowly into your bloodstream to minimize spikes in blood sugar that can aggravate acne. Best of all, they taste like Rice Krispies bars!
How Can I Erase Acne Scars?
There are several ways to improve the appearance of your acne scars, depending on their color, texture, and size. Dark, discolored acne scars can be lightened with prescription-strength fading creams, such as Tri-Luma and EpiQuin Micro. These are especially helpful in individuals with darker skin tones, who, because they have more melanin in their skin, are more likely to develop dark blemishes even after their pimples heal, a condition called postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. If the fading creams don't lighten the scars, a dermatologist can perform a chemical peel to help even out the skin tone.
If your scars have left you with uneven skin texture, new devices such as the Affirm and Fraxel lasers can help smooth the skin's surface. These minimally invasive lasers can reduce shallow scars, and treatment necessitates only a few days of recovery time.
Depressed scars can also be treated with "fillers," such as Restylane, Juvederm, and CosmoPlast, which are injected underneath the skin to lift up the scar's surface. While these treatments require little to no recovery time, they generally wear off in four to six months and must be repeated to maintain the results.
Deep or extensive scarring may require more invasive procedures, such as carbon dioxide resurfacing lasers or dermabrasion. Because these treatments are more aggressive and remove several layers of skin, they require a minimum of two to three weeks of recovery time. There is a risk of persistent redness and discoloration, which can last several months, depending on the area treated and your skin type.
Very large or deep acne pits may require a visit to a plastic surgeon who performs scar revision. In this type of surgery, the scars are cut out and the healthy skin is sewn back together to allow the area to heal more smoothly.
If you take Accutane or other forms of isotretinoin for your acne, it's important to discontinue use and wait at least six months to a year before undergoing any invasive procedures. Such drugs can impair the skin's ability to heal properly and may lead to more scarring. I would recommend a visit to a dermatologist or plastic surgeon, who can evaluate your scars and recommend the best treatment for your skin type.
Skin-Soothing Cocktails
(a summer article but liquor is timeless, right? lol)
Sangria
Perhaps the most celebratory drink of backyard parties and outdoor dining, sangria is also one of the healthiest alcoholic beverages you can order. Wine is packed with flavonoids and resveratrol, antioxidants that have antiaging effects — they help prevent and reduce the damage of "free radicals" on the skin. You also reap the health benefits of the fruit you choose to use! While red wine does have a higher antioxidant content, white also has these properties, and it's a lighter option for summer nights (or days … we won't judge). A rule of thumb for selecting fruit: Go with cool colors for white wine (green apples, green grapes, oranges, and pineapples) and warm for red wine (red apples, red grapes, raspberries, and strawberries). Slice fruit into a pitcher, add wine, and refrigerate overnight — the longer it marinates, the stronger the fruit flavor!
Mango Mojito
Few things are as refreshing as a crisp, minty mojito on a hot summer day. The cocktail already has low-calorie benefits, so why not up the health factor and make it with mangoes? The fruit is loaded with beta-carotene, an antioxidant (and a form of vitamin A) that protects skin from sun damage and is essential to soft, healthy skin. It also has doses of vitamins A, C and E, which keep the skin firm and glowing and help reduce acne scarring. Start by squeezing half a lime into a glass, add mint, and crush. Add 2 tablespoons of simple syrup, 3 tablespoons rum, 1 tablespoon mango nectar, and top with club soda. For even more vitamin A, add in a few slices of fresh mango and eat them when you're done! (Note: The health benefits of this cocktail are best reaped at home. If you order it out, chances are they will use mango rum, which does not have the beta-carotene.)
Bloody Mary
If you're a fan of Bloody Marys, you'll be happy to know that your skin is too. The perfect accent to a Sunday brunch, this drink's tomato juice base is filled with lycopene, an antioxidant that keeps skin looking younger by protecting it from sun damage (it blocks UV light), fighting free radicals, and preserving healthy skin cells. Add two parts tomato juice, one part vodka, and ½ oz. lemon juice to a glass of ice. Mix in a dash of Worcestershire sauce, celery salt, and ground pepper, and garnish with a celery stick and a lime wedge. If you're suffering from rosacea, Dr. Jessica Wu suggests avoiding triggers like alcohol and spicy foods, which render the Bloody Mary a one-two punch. Drink at your own risk — especially if you're piling on the Tabasco.
Green Tea Martini
You most likely know that green tea boasts many health benefits — among them better skin. The catechins in green tea help to rejuvenate skin cells, protect against skin cancer, and soothe acne. What you probably didn't know is that green tea can be consumed as a scrumptious cocktail. For a refreshing (and skin boosting!) summer drink, add green tea, vodka, and simple syrup to a shaker of ice. Shake and strain into a cocktail glass. Add an extra summer kick with orange and lime wedges, which enhance the flavor of the tea and bring in a few extra vitamins!
H20 Spritzer
Okay, so we're cheating a little on this one. But let's face it: Water is the number- one drink when it comes to your skin. We all know that hydration (which is so important during the sweltering heat of summer!) flushes toxins from our body and reduces under- eye circles, resulting in a radiant, glowing complexion. What we fail to recognize is that consuming your recommended 8 glasses doesn't have to be a chore. Turn your water into a fun, fruity beverage that tastes yummy and keeps your skin bright and youthful. Pick your favorite fruit (lemons, limes, apples, and oranges all work great) and herbs (mint is an obvious choice, but basil can work wonders too!), slice them up, and let them soak in a pitcher of ice water overnight. In the morning you'll have water infused with a hint of the fruit or herb of your choice. We also love the idea of adding berries to seltzer or sparkling water. Crush a handful of raspberries, blueberries, and strawberries at the bottom of a glass, add some crushed ice, and top with carbonated water. The fizz reminds us of a fun carbonated cocktail (minus the alcohol and calories), and it couldn't be more refreshing on a hot summer day.
And now for my own tidbit of advice...
Polysporin on pimples, it works! Of course, you have to pop the sucker first (screw those dermatologists with their "don't pop!" warnings). But then just dab a bit of Poly on, the antibacterial ingredients prevent it from reforming and the healing agents soothe redness and reduce scarring.
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